In Hanoi, even a cup of black coffee can becomes a story of culture.
Coffee culture of the old days
It might be strange to many foreigners coming to Hanoi that Coffee, a drink imported from the invaders, can be on the list of Hanoi Traditional Food and drink. To the Vietnamese, it is easy to understand because the past is only the past. Besides the pains that the war left behind, the French colonists also brought to Hanoi the finest of their cuisine, which is harmless and “innocent” during the period of war.
French coffee gradually became Vietnamese coffee thanks to the appearance of Nhan café, Lam café, Nang café, Giang café and so on. From the way they blend, roast and grind the coffee beans to the way their coffee was made, all were not the same as the French did. Giang café has been famous for their egg coffee. Nang café right in one end of Hang Bac Street, Lam café on Nguyen Huu Huan Street together with Nhan café was fascinating with their own recipes for the buttery, strong, dark coffee.
Hanoi coffee is not for people in hurry. That is true. Coffee beans were soaked in boiled water in a small filter (called phin) while an old man was reading his daily newspaper. Each drop of the dark drink was dripping down the bottom of the small porcelain cups and spreading the strong fragrance in the air when the customers were deep in their early morning stories.
One more thing that creates the culture of coffee drinking in Hanoi years ago is that most of the café was on the pavement because the coffee shops were too small to serve all customers inside.
That was coffee culture of Hanoians in the past. No hustles, no bustles.
Coffee Culture now
Hanoi coffee now is quite different from it was. The flavors change due to the taste of youngsters. Highland coffee, Starbucks coffee and some other famous branches has “disembarked” into Vietnam and brought the new trend in coffee drinking. Those shops look more modern and the views of them are also more romantic and youthful.
However, inside the Old Quarter, there is still the existence of some old style café which you may totally discover on your Food walking tour in Hanoi. The flavors are remained, the decoration are vintage and makes people nostalgic for an old Hanoi, the coffee is still handmade. A coffee culture, which is thought to be mislaid on the way of development and integration, is still alive and “breathing” inside a busy city.
Have you ever wished Cooking Class in Hanoi would offer you a chance to make Hanoi coffee by yourself? Hopefully, that chance will soon come.